October Eves Scarf

“Listen! The wind is rising, and the air is wild with leaves,
We have had our summer evenings, now for October eves!” – Humbert Wolfe

I made this scarf last autumn as a test piece.  The linen isn't embroidery linen; it's a linen / rayon combination.   The color is a beautiful rich, dark-chocolate brown, which my photos don't do justice, sadly.  I posted a picture of this scarf previously, but never got back to the post to add details.  Also, I was even less pleased with the photo I used, so I'm re-posting it here.

I bought the linen to make a shawl with a scrolling floral vine pattern I designed.  However, I didn't want to buy all the floss, transfer the design, etc, only to discover that I couldn't stitch on this linen.  So, I decided to make a test-scarf and work out any issues that arose.

You may recognize the scrolling leaf/acorn pattern.  It's a detail taken from a 17th c. jacket at the V&A (Acc #919-1873).  Here's a link to the jacket if you wish to compare it.  http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O80226/jacket/
Of course I changed all the colors (I can't ever let that alone) and modified the design to stand alone on a scarf.

Threads:  Patricia Woods from Mulberry Silks in the Cotswolds put together this silk floss packet for me (in 2 thicknesses: F or 40/3 and K or 70/3).  She's incredible.  She doesn't have a color card, so I gave her some of her autumn color #s that I had used previously, then gave her DMC colors to match close to, along with a description of the feel I wanted for the scarf colors.  She came back with this beautiful little floss packet (which you can see I've used already).  She was right on with the colors I was imagining for the scarf!  Click here to go to Mulberry Silks

In addition to Mulberry Silks (MS), I also used Au Ver a Soie silks (henceforth referred to as AVS).
The thread details:

Main vine - AVS Trebizond color 7365

Acorn caps  - AVS Perlee #s 274 and 519 

Leaves -  AVS Perlee (colors 274, 499,299) and MS (colors: 901F, 932K,362K,432K,350K)

Leaf veins - AVS 100/3 thickness in colors 179 and 628  

Stems - AVS 100/3 in 274 and 179

The stitches used (they are the same as those on the original jacket, except its main vine was either Chain or Reverse Chain)  :
Heavy Broad for the main vine
Detached Buttonhole (with a Reverse Chain outline) for the leaves and acorn bodies
Trellis stitch for the acorn caps
Stem stich for the leaf veins and stems.

This diminutive detail appears on the opposite end of the scarf.

What I learned from this test:
Stitching on linen/rayon worked fine.
The linen is a little stiff for a scarf, but will be fine for a shawl - it can be worn tied in a half knot only, not double wrapped as I usually do.
I didn't care for the Trebizond thread in this application (Heavy Broad stitch).  It got "ratty" very quickly and was difficult to work with.

A Floral Scarf to wear whilst riding horseback with the Queen of a Spring Day

This floral scarf for Spring was inspired by the following :

Queen Elizabeth (I) and her Ladies sometimes wore scarves while riding horseback and enjoying other outdoor activities, according to biographer Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.

The following excerpt is also from the same book:

"The description of Elizabeth uncovering herself... probably means that she removed a light gauzy scarf from around her neck.  Elizabeth had many exquisitely decorated scarves.  One... made in 1591... was of white silk cypress, embroidered with scaling ladders, armed men and other devices in the borders at each end."
"  Stubbes described them as extravagant accessories in 1583:
   Then must they have their silke scarffes cast about their faces, and fluttering in the wind with great tassells at every ende, eyther of gold, silver or silke  But I know wherefore, they will say, they weare these scarffes, namely, to keep them from Sunne burnyng."

That my scarf may be similar to the one described above, I have embroidered the floral border at both ends of the scarf and included a long fringe to "flutter in the wind".

Stitches used include:
Ceylon (insect wings, strawberry leaves)
Outline, 
Detached buttonhole (leaves, buds, carnation)
Trellis (insect body)
Spiral Trellis (base of pomegranate)


Linen:  60 count fine Cambric 
Threads:  Mulberry Silks and Au Ver a Soie's Gobelin Silk
Rolled, hand worked hem.




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