Heavy Broad stitch is used for outlining and linear motifs.
It's best worked in metal threads or tightly twisted silk, or cotton, threads.
#371 gold wire was used for this tutorial for clarity in the photos. However, the stitch lengths given are for soie perlee. If using thread of a different thickness, adjust stitch lengths accordingly.
It's best worked in metal threads or tightly twisted silk, or cotton, threads.
#371 gold wire was used for this tutorial for clarity in the photos. However, the stitch lengths given are for soie perlee. If using thread of a different thickness, adjust stitch lengths accordingly.
If using cotton or silk, use a 3” away waste knot to start your thread. After completing the embroidery, cut the knot off and run the beginning tail under 4 or 5 stitches on the back of your work.
For metal threads, start with a double knot, which is not cut off after embroidery is completed.
Begin by making a small back stitch.
Bring the needle back up through the fabric about 1/8” away from the backstitch and run it under the back stitch. Return the needle back down through the fabric in the same hole, creating a small chain stitch on the fabric surface.
Bring the needle to the surface about 1/8” away from the first chain stitch and again run the needle under the first backstitch.
Bring needle to surface about 1/8” away from the last chain stitch and run the needle under the first chain stitch.
Bring needle to surface 1/8” away from last chain stitch and run the needle under the second chain stitch.
Continue in this way to the end of the line.
The result is a nice heavy chain stitch. When this stitch is worked with metal wire, or tightly twisted threads, it looks like a braid that has been couched onto the fabric. It'a beautiful stitch that's enjoyable to work.
(You may have noticed that I'm using a tapestry needle, rather than a Japanese needle. I understand that Japanese needles are currently quite popular, but I don't like to use them due to their extreme sharpness, and will avoid them wherever possible. I find, even after years of practice, that I constantly prick myself, often quite deeply, thereby risking stains on the fabric.)
(You may have noticed that I'm using a tapestry needle, rather than a Japanese needle. I understand that Japanese needles are currently quite popular, but I don't like to use them due to their extreme sharpness, and will avoid them wherever possible. I find, even after years of practice, that I constantly prick myself, often quite deeply, thereby risking stains on the fabric.)
It is a very useful stitch, isn't it!
ReplyDeleteYou said "For metal threads, start with a double knot, which is not cut off after embroidery is completed." Can you explain exactly what you mean by this? I'm a little confused.
ReplyDeleteHi KMK,
DeleteIn goldwork, there are a few common ways to knot the thread before beginning embroidery. The thread must be knotted to get a good tension while stitching. I give instructions for how to make a double knot, along with photos, under the Reverse Chain tutorial:
http://baroqueembellishments.blogspot.com/2011/12/reverse-chain-stitch-instructions.html
Thanks for your question!
Kim, Each project is more beautiful than the last! I have just received a Liebster Blog award, and am passing along the love by giving the award to you and your blog also! You can read all about the award on my blog here http://stitchingwithkittens.blogspot.com/2012/04/thank-you-jenny.html .
ReplyDeleteThank you for many beautiful and interesting works.This is my first time here. hugs and Happy Christmas!
ReplyDeleteleny.calvi@yahoo.com.br